We arrived after a redeye and quickly napped at our hotel before walking around town. Lunch at the Timeout Market — bifana, chips, couscous salad — and then walked to the water, across the Praca do Comercio, into the hills of Alfama with a very good cappuccino in hand, through the Castelo de Sao Jorge to look at shards of pottery and preening peacocks, and back down the hill toward our hotel for another rest. Dinner was nearby, a fancy but quite good meal at Bahr, at the top of the Bairro Alto hotel: Smoked barnacles, tuna tartare, grilled octopus, and a stunning chocolate and sesame dessert.