Homemade Pasta
In the first few months of Covid, when Anna and I were living with her family in Rhode Island, every dinner was an event. There was little else to look forward to. Nowhere to go, no one to socialize with, no sports on TV, nothing. And I had left my job, so I had plenty of time to invest. Bike and cook. Cook and bike. That was life.
We feasted. Claire Saffitz’s eggplant parm. Chicken tortilla pie. Sourdough bagels. Shrimp and grits. Boscht cooked outside over an open fire. (Okay, and the occasional takeout order or burgers on the grill.)
Perhaps the only dish that made it into regular rotation was homemade pasta. We didn’t have a pasta machine, but the process of rolling and cutting the dough by hand was more satisfying anyway. Even after we moved back to the city, the pasta habit stuck: Sunday night is pasta night. The types of pasta I tend to make have changed, but the ritual endures.
More than a few times friends have joined us for dinner and then asked for guidance making pasta. This page is that guidance.
I’m going to keep things simple, in service of answering only one question: “How do I get started making pasta at home?”
There are only three decisions you need to make:
What kind of dough do I want to make?
What kind of shape do I want to make?
What kind of sauce do I want to make?
Egg dough vs water dough
There are many variations of pasta dough, but at it’s simplest there are two.
Fresh pasta in northern Italy is typically made with 00 flour and eggs. It’s probably what you think of when you think “fresh pasta.” Fettucini, ravioli, tortellini — all egg-based and rolled and cut. It tends to be velvety and rich. My favorite cookbook for egg-based doughs is Missy Robinson’s Pasta.
Pasta in southern Italy is typically made with semolina flour and water. Semolina is ground more coarsely, and the resulting dough tends to be tougher. Rather than being rolled, pastas made with semolina flour and water tend to be shaped by hand. Orecchiette, cavatelli, pici — all water-based and hand-shaped. The result is pasta that feels rustic and personal. More than half the time that I make pasta, I make cavatelli because it is low-stress, freezes well, and can be done with friends. My favorite cookbook for water-based doughs is Pasta by Hand.
Starter recipe 1: Cavatelli
This recipe makes enough for three big servings, or four small servings. This dough recipe can serve as the base for any water-and-semolina-based shape — cavatelli, orrechiette, pici, etc.
What you’ll need
Two cups semolina flour (Amazon link here)
~7/8 cup of water, very warm
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cavatelli board (Amazon link here)
Very optional: Stand mixer to knead the dough
Very optional: Spray bottle with water for adjusting moisture
Making the dough
If using a stand mixer: Add all the ingredients to the mixing bowl with the dough hook attachment. Run on medium-low for 8-10 minutes. You make have to scrape flour off the sides to help the dough cohere. If the dough forms into small pebbles instead of coming together into a single mass, add more water a tablespoon at a time. You’ll know the dough is ready when it is supple and the surface is smooth. If pressed, it should mostly spring back.
If kneading by hand: Pour the flour and salt onto the counter. Make a well in the center and pour in the warm water. Start to combine the water and flour by pulling some of the flour into the well using your fingers or a fork. Once most of the water is absorbed, push in the rest of the flour and try to form a ball. The dough won’t fully hold together at this point, and you’ll probably think, “This dough is too dry.” It’s probably not too dry, though. Just start kneading. If, after a couple minutes, the dough still hasn’t come together, add a teaspoon of water from the tap or using a spray bottle. Keep kneading, adding water if necessary. After 8-10 minutes, the dough should be supple and the surface smooth. If pressed, it should mostly spring back.
When the dough is ready, form it into a thick, short log. Wrap it in plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes. You can also wrap it and put it in the fridge for up to a day; just make sure to remove it and give it 30 minutes to come back to room temperature before shaping.
Shaping the cavatelli
Once the dough has rested, cut off roughly a fifth of the log and rewrap the remainder. Use your hands to roll the piece of dough into a rope, roughly 1/2 an inch in diameter. Cut the rope into 1/2-inch pieces.
Now the fun part. With your left hand, hold the cavatelli board at shallow angle, one end resting the counter. With your right index finger or thumb, press a piece of dough onto the board, and firmly roll it down the ridged surface. Push hard enough to depress the dough, but not so hard that is sticks and drags. (This video is a good demonstration.)
Toss each cavatello onto a baking sheet dusted with semolina flour, which will prevent the cavatelli from sticking. Repeat the rope-cut-roll process until you’ve worked through all the dough. Cook in boiling water for roughly three minutes.
The ideal sauce
Cavatelli’s ridges do great with smooth, saucy sauces — think a very smooth tomato sauce, pesto, etc.
Freezing cavatelli
Cavatelli freeze really well. Place a baking sheet or large plate with cavatelli into the freezer for 15 minutes. Make sure the cavatelli are lying in a single layer. Then you can put them all in a Ziploc bag together and return to the freezer. (Partially freezing them first ensures they won’t stick together when you bag them.) Cook your frozen cavatelli a couple minutes longer than you would if they were fresh.
Starter recipe 2: Fettuccini
This recipe makes roughly enough for three big servings, or four small servings.
What you’ll need
A dozen egg yolks (yes, a dozen egg yolks for just 3-4 servings!)
250g of 00 or all purpose flour (Amazon 00 options here and here)
Very optional: Stand mixer to knead the dough
Very optional: Pasta machine (the Mercato Atlas is a classic, or a more expensive KitchenAid attachment)
Making the dough
No need for me to reinvent the wheel here — Martha Stewart has the Missy Robinson recipe here.
Cutting the dough
If you have a pasta machine, rolling and cutting the dough is straightforward and described in the recipe linked above. B
ut here’s the truth: You don’t need a pasta machine! A rolling pin and a sharp knife is plenty. Epicurious explains how here.
Freezing fettuccini
If you have extra fettuccini, dust the pasta with extra flour and form into bird nests. Place the nests in the freezer for 15 minutes, then consolidate them into a Ziploc bag. (Partially freezing them first ensures they won’t stick together when you bag them.) Cook your frozen cavatelli a couple minutes longer than you would if they were fresh.
Remember: Trust your instincts
Handmade pasta is meant to look handmade. Rough edges and irregular forms are part of the appeal. Embrace the process.
Same with the dough. Though I’ve given recipes above, trust your judgment and adjust as needed. If the dough feels too dry, add a little water and keep kneading. If it feels too wet, add more flour. Proportions will change based on temperature, humidity, etc. so just go with the flow. The worst that can happen is you’re out a few dollars’ worth of ingredients and need to start over. Over time you’ll develop good instincts about when and how to make adjustments.
That said, if you have questions, just text or call. If you’re reading this page then you know how to find me. Happy eating!